Who Made My Clothes? Join the Fashion Revolution #fashrev

 

April 24th, 2015, will mark the two-year anniversary of the devastating Rana Plaza collapse that killed 1133 people and injured many more. It is also Fashion Revolution Day.

Fashion Revolution is a global movement aiming to "help to raise awareness of the true cost of fashion, show the world that change is possible, and celebrate all those involved in creating a more sustainable future."

On Fashion Revolution Day we are asked to wear our clothes inside-out, reveal the label, tag the brand on social media and ask, #whomademyclothes?

  

I've previously written about fast fashion and its social and environmental costs, and my commitment to ethical fashion has not changed. However, I feel I should be contacting more clothing retailers to question their practices. Following last year's Fashion Revolution Day, I wrote to Australian fashion label Gorman about their supply chain transparency. They replied directing me to their "Ethical Statement". I'm still not buying Gorman and haven't done so for a few years, although they are probably better than most Australian fashion retailers. They fared...okay...in the 2009 "Travelling Textiles" report but have since been sold to Factory X, owner of brands like of Dangerfield and Alannah Hill. I can't find anything online about their supply chain. I will continue to make do with my already over-populated wardrobe, replacing items only if they wear out or no longer fit, and doing so with fair trade, second-hand or Australian (ethically) made garments.  

If you would like to read more on this topic, I've created a page with links to ethical fashion resources.

I will be asking #whomademyclothes on April 24, and encourage you to join me. You'll find me on Instagram and Twitter (and maybe at work!) with my clothes inside out.

Sunday Links

• I think it's fun seeing fashion week looks recreated from charity clothing stores, as in the above video from London's Back of the Wardrobe
• Still in the UK,  Treading My Own Path shares her eco-inspiration from travelling to the UK and Europe
• I love the concept of building schools cheaply with rubbish-stuffed plastic bottles as insulation. (Also love the name of the nonprofit, Hug It Forward.) via Unconsumption
• More upcycling: German Artist Tino Seubert Dyes Clothing With Airborne Pollution (Ecoteurre) 
• Clothes that charge your smartphone? Yes please. (The Guardian)
• Big Food with regional flavour: how Australia's food lobby works. (The Conversation)
• Did you participate in Zero Waste Week? Me neither. But The Double Life of Mrs M did and shares some advice here.
• On the same theme, The Rogue Ginger shares her top movies about plastic that will change your life. 
• I previously promised a post about evidence-based charitable donations. That still hasn't happened but the Australian Medical Students Association (AMSA) Global Health Conference gives a good summary of the issue.
• Philanthropy: reclaiming the "P-word" for a modern world. (The Guardian)
• What happened to the Make Poverty History movement? (Sydney Morning Herald)

Not resolving, just doing

I am working on a review of my 2013 resolutions.

I don't have resolutions for 2014 but am trying a bit of this, a bit of that, and this too. You may also wish to try these.

I will also do this and this, which I already do anyway but should do more publicly now that it has a higher profile. I'll write more about these in future.

It's seems particularly pertinent due to the news today that striking garment workers in Cambodia were shot dead by police.

Sunday links

Now the federal election is over, I feel able to share some (not-too-political) reading. Most found via blogs or twitter (where I am @cerebral_e or @Elissa_Campbell).

Why Generation Y Yuppies are Unhappy. The comments on this article make me so glad to be Australian, where my Gen Y yuppiness is easier to bear (Gen Y being defined by the author as the generation born between the late 1970s and early 1990s). Wait But Why via @PearlyProductns

The future "social cost" and economic costs of carbon far outweigh any short-term financial cost of cleaner energy.  Counting the Cost of Fixing the Future - New York Times

The fascinating story of James Miranda Barry, who lived her life as a man so she could be a doctor in 19th century England. I'm glad I didn't have to resort to this. Her Courageous Life As A Man by Natascha McElhone (yes, the wonderful actress) - Intelligent Life magazine

Listen, Girlfriends has started a series of blog posts on ethical fashion.

On the same topic, some links to reads about combating the fast fashion movement - The American Edit

Why I broke up with the supermarket, by Aussie blogger Down To Earth Mother. I have to agree with her and I love that she buys her toilet paper from Who Gives a Crap.

A nice story on one of my favourite Aussie blogs about one of my favourite Perth stores, Remedy. They stock Australian-made and fair trade goods, which are invariably lovely - The Design Files.

I am terrible at making decisions and have always had FOMO. That's why, when I find a brand or business I like, I stick to it. Routines can help save your energy for the important decisions. Reducing Decisions to Focus Better - The Art of Non-Conformity

Russell Brand says some very sensible things, sometimes - The Guardian via @Monika_Dutt


A few links to stop you from buying too much stuff:

When did goods get so bad? - Raptitude

Beware, the Diderot Effect. I have fallen victim to this on more than one occasion - Treading My Own Path

5 Reasons You're Earning More But You're Still Miserable - Daily Finance

Sunday links

Times Haiku: Serendipitous Poetry from the New York Times

This New York Times piece talks about the power of citizen lobbying and the hurdles that citizen lobby groups must overcome. In the words of Captain Planet, "The power is YOURS."



One of my first posts on this blog was about the Peter Singer book, The Life You Can Save. In his recent TED talk on Effective Altruism, he argues the ethics behind that book. I think it's worth 20 minutes of your time.

Bigger Than Yourself is starting a letter-writing campaign to Australian fashion labels, asking about the ethics behind their clothing production. She's starting out with popular brands Sportsgirl, Review, Portmans, Alannah Hill and Witchery and she's had a few typically vague responses. I'm going to write to a few of the brands I no longer purchase because I'm not confident they're sweat-shop free.

Three Australian-based, ethical fashion/lifestyle blogs I discovered this week: Indigo Bazaar, Green Flings and Eco Warrior Princess.

One of my food heroes, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, is heading to Australia for a River Cottage Australia. Unfortunately, it's on Foxtel. I may need to find a friend with Foxtel...or wait until it comes out on DVD. I'm hoping there will be a River Cottage Australia cookbook.

Another of my food heroes, Michael Pollan, was on ABC Radio National this week along with celebrity chef Peter Kuruvita and "Salt Sugar Fat" author Michael Moss. They talk about taking back control of cooking (from food corporations) as a source of pleasure and self-reliance. (Thanks to @timsenior for the link.)

Fat City: What can stop obesity? is a long, but eloquent and thorough, read by Australian physician Karen Hitchcock. (Illustrated by a faceless fatty, I see.) She discusses the individual and societal factors leading to obesity, and the costs to the individual and to the public.  She concludes, "If you come to me, your doctor, and you ask me to make you thin, for now I will have to cut you or drug you, as these are the only weapons I have to ward off the sirens." We (not just doctors but everyone) need to tackle obesity at a societal level because as Dr Hitchcock says, our options are limited at an individual level.
 
Please comment if you find these links of interest and would like to discuss their content.

Sunday links

• Have you seen the "Dove Real Beauty Sketches" ad that's gone viral? In less than two weeks, it has more than 32 million Youtube views. Superficially, it has a touchy-feely message that all women are beautiful and we are all too self-critical. However, the campaign has been criticised for its focus on thin, blonde, conventionally beautiful women and the fact that Dove is owned by Unilever, which also owns brands known for ad campaigns that objectify women (such as Axe in the USA and Lynx in Australia). Worse, Unilever has a reputation for human rights abuses. See more feminist responses to the Dove ad here. (Rachel Hills)
• More than 360 people were killed (and the search for bodies continues) in a building collapse in Bangladesh this week. Garment factory workers were reportedly forced to stay and work in a building that was known to be at risk of collapse. As usual, this tragedy has had little cover in the Australian mainstream media. You can follow the international news feed here.
• We've all heard of Make Poverty History. What if we aimed to Make Inequality History? (Oxfam blogs)
• Is access to water a human right? The Nestle CEO thinks that's an "extreme" view held by NGOs. (True Activist via @ONeillJazz)
• The interaction between the medical profession and Big Pharma is often questionable (for a great book on the topic, see "Bad Pharma" by Ben Goldacre). This Global Mail article looks at a new marketing tactic being employed in Australia.
• One of my favourite food writers, Michael Pollan, has just released a new book, "Cooked." I look forward to reading it and also checking out some of these other food books he recommends. (Barnes & Noble via @michaelpollan)

Cheap fashion - what does it cost?

We have an insatiable appetite for cheap fashion. I've heard friends say, "This store is great for throwaway clothes." I've seen fashion magazine covers scream, "Guilt-free buys under $20." I've seen a lifestyle journalist comment (repeatedly) that fashion purchases are so cheap, they're "practically free."

These comments assume that the only cost of cheap fashion is the cost to our wallets and that the only reason we may feel guilty about purchasing cheap fashion is that we're spending our potential savings or racking up more credit. The Australian mainstream media today ran a "cheap fashion" story, with the long (and poorly punctuated) title "The twin test: One twin is wearing a $199 Cue dress the other is in a $50 Target dress. Can you tell the difference?" The focus of the article was the aesthetic differences between the two dresses - the fit, the cut and the feel of the fabric. While mention was made of the country of manufacture (the $199 dress is made in Australia by an accredited Ethical Clothing Australia brand, whereas the cheaper dress is a cotton/elastane mix and was made in China), no comment was made about the possible implications for labour conditions.

One reason the "Twin Test" article resonated so much with me today is that it was juxtaposed against the horrific news of more than one hundred deaths in a factory fire in Bangladesh. Twelve of those people died after jumping from windows to escape the fire (due to a lack of emergency exits). I'm not trying to suggest that the cheap Target dress in the article above is linked to factory worker deaths, or even that Target uses factories with unsafe labour practices and conditions. Target Australia, like many big brands, has an Ethical Sourcing Code, which is very easy to find and download from their website. This is self-monitored, as per the guidebook to their code:

"Target will monitor compliance with this Code, and we, or our representatives, may visit factories to ensure compliance with this policy. Any violations of our Code will be reported to the vendor for follow up and corrective action. Vendors are required to cooperate with the entire process. Where there are egregious violations and/or the vendor/factory does not demonstrate a willingness to comply, Target reserves the right to discontinue business with the vendor/factory."

This monitoring seems pretty wishy-washy to me. They "may" visit factories to ensure compliance, they "reserve the right to discontinue business" in the case of "egregious violations." I'm not trying to pick on (or target) Target in particular. I only mention them because they are featured in the "Twin Test" article and I thought they would be fairly representative of other big Australian retailers. (Out of interest, I spent a few minutes searching the Myer and David Jones website but was unable to find any ethical sourcing policy, just mentions of their philanthropic works. K Mart has an Ethical Sourcing Code, similarly worded to Target's, which is unsurprising as they are both subsidiaries of the same company. I could not find a similar policy on Big W's website.)

What I am saying is that our appetite for cheap fashion, and retailers' desire to feed that appetite, means that manufacturers have to produce garments more and more cheaply. This inevitably means that somewhere along the line, corners are cut, and the least empowered workers are the ones who ultimately suffer. Most (nearly all) big labels and chain stores out-source the production of their garments to third parties. This way, when disasters such as today's factory fire occur, the label can protect their brand name and wash their hands by severing their ties with that factory and condemning its unsafe practices.

How do you ensure that the people who made your fashion did so in a safe working environment, under fair conditions? Unfortunately, this sort of information does not appear on a clothing label along with the washing instructions. There is nothing to distinguish whether it was made in a "good" or "bad" factory. When I'm in a store and spot clothing I like, the first thing I look for is the place of manufacture (yes, even before the price). Unless it's made locally or fair trade, I will avoid it. Individual items of clothing may be more expensive but I am buying far fewer clothes than previously. The only way to ensure that workers are treated fairly is for consumers to demand it and to be willing to pay more for fashion that is produced under better conditions.

Even the "Twin Test" article concedes, "...cheap clothing can often cost more in the end because enthusiastic bargain-hunters buy more items than they really need." It's a pity the more important, human, cost is not mentioned.




As usual, this post is longer than I intended, with half the content. Another post on this topic, and a page with reading suggestions, coming soon!